Notes only. Photos and narrative to come.
Got up early and after brekkie headed up to view aborigine rock art Ubirr. Heard explanations by Russ, an aboriginal Park Ranger first at the “Main Gallery” then at the Rainbow Serpent site, and finally at a site illustrating several codes of behavior. In between we walked up to a plateau from which we had a 360 degree view of the Nadab floodplain and the hills beyond.
Returned to Bowali Visitor Center where we ate our lunch out of the sun.
Drove to Nourlangie Rock Art sites for self-guided tour, as there were no ranger talks in very hot middle of the day. Thank goodness for our insect-screen hats; the flies would have driven us mad.
Did a very long (2.5 km) walk around the Anbangbang Billabong. Saw dozens of noisy Red-tailed Black Cockatoos, the usual thousands of Magpie Geese, Pelicans, and Egrets, as well as a rather large Wallaby and the infamous poisonous Central American Cane Toad, introduced by Queensland sugar cane farmers from to control a sugarcane beetle and now responsible for wreaking havoc with native Australian wildlife as far away as Darwin and Kakadu.
Back to the campsite where we met a peripatetic backpacker French couple with whom we shared our dinner, as well as a couple of Aussies who worked at the Uranium mine near Jabiru and lived in trailers at the campsite. They were grilling their first caught Baramundi and were pretty pleased with themselves.
Friday, September 26, 2008
Thursday, September 25, 2008
Kakadu: Jabiru/East Alligator River (PICs & NOTES)
Notes and some photos only. Narrative to come.
Our first "campfire" coffee, early in the morning
Our first camping Brekkie
A visitor (Raven)
Peter enjoying his cooking
Birdwatching on Mamukala Wetlands
Again with a little help from another birdwatcher, we Ided Plumed Whistling Duck, Royal Spoonbill, Jabiru (stork), Little Pied Heron, Whiskered Tern, Burdekin Duck, Black-winged Stilt, Glossy Ibis, Masked Lapwing (Plover), Little Pied Cormorant and on our own more Brolga Cranes. Also, saw thousands of Pelicans in feeding frenzy.
Took ill-advised walk with too little water and without having checked for the length or route, turned back half way through.
Saw thousands of Magpie Geese, Egrets (Great, Intermediate, and Little), and Pelicans on mud flats
and Ided a Rainbow Bee Eater and a Varied Triller in the woods.
Drove to Bowali Visitor Center where we bought a piece of Binninj/Mungguy artwork ( Rainbow Serpent and Mimi Spirits acrylic on paper) from the Marrawuddi Gallery. Had it shipped back to the states along with some aboriginal designed gifts.
Checked in and ate lunch at our camp ground at the Kakadu Lodge near the Aborigine town of Jabiru. The camp site is filled with screeching Little Corellas (a type of Cockatoo). Drove into Jabiru for gas and did a bit more food (and water!) shopping.
Took Aboriginal-led Guluyambi Boat cruise on East Alligator River (misnamed by British explorer who mistook Saltwater Crocodiles, “Salties,” for Alligators he’d seen in Florida). Saw a number of salties and learned from Sean (our guide) the myriad uses aborigines make of various trees, bushes etc. Also, saw how they made and used hunting weapons and basketry. Learned a bit about Aborigine family relations, skin names, etc. Saw Nankeen (Russet) Night Heron and Little Corellas.
BBQed steak and sausages and met a very friendly self-described “surfer” family from Melbourne (Michael, Sue and children Declan, Oliver, and Chloe). Also met a dutchman who was taking a similarly long trip throughout Australia and NZ as we were. (We were to meet up with both the Aussie family and the Flying Dutchman several more times over the next several days at various campsites and natural attractions in Kakadu and beyond).
Our first "campfire" coffee, early in the morning
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| From Sept 24-26, 2008 |
Our first camping Brekkie
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| From Sept 24-26, 2008 |
A visitor (Raven)
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| From Sept 24-26, 2008 |
Peter enjoying his cooking
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| From Sept 24-26, 2008 |
Birdwatching on Mamukala Wetlands
Again with a little help from another birdwatcher, we Ided Plumed Whistling Duck, Royal Spoonbill, Jabiru (stork), Little Pied Heron, Whiskered Tern, Burdekin Duck, Black-winged Stilt, Glossy Ibis, Masked Lapwing (Plover), Little Pied Cormorant and on our own more Brolga Cranes. Also, saw thousands of Pelicans in feeding frenzy.
 |
| From Sept 24-26, 2008 |
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| From Sept 24-26, 2008 |
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| From Sept 24-26, 2008 |
|
| From Sept 24-26, 2008 |
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| From Sept 24-26, 2008 |
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| From Sept 24-26, 2008 |
|
| From Sept 24-26, 2008 |
Took ill-advised walk with too little water and without having checked for the length or route, turned back half way through.
 |
| From Sept 24-26, 2008 |
 |
| From Sept 24-26, 2008 |
Saw thousands of Magpie Geese, Egrets (Great, Intermediate, and Little), and Pelicans on mud flats
|
| From Sept 24-26, 2008 |
and Ided a Rainbow Bee Eater and a Varied Triller in the woods.
Drove to Bowali Visitor Center where we bought a piece of Binninj/Mungguy artwork ( Rainbow Serpent and Mimi Spirits acrylic on paper) from the Marrawuddi Gallery. Had it shipped back to the states along with some aboriginal designed gifts.
Checked in and ate lunch at our camp ground at the Kakadu Lodge near the Aborigine town of Jabiru. The camp site is filled with screeching Little Corellas (a type of Cockatoo). Drove into Jabiru for gas and did a bit more food (and water!) shopping.
Took Aboriginal-led Guluyambi Boat cruise on East Alligator River (misnamed by British explorer who mistook Saltwater Crocodiles, “Salties,” for Alligators he’d seen in Florida). Saw a number of salties and learned from Sean (our guide) the myriad uses aborigines make of various trees, bushes etc. Also, saw how they made and used hunting weapons and basketry. Learned a bit about Aborigine family relations, skin names, etc. Saw Nankeen (Russet) Night Heron and Little Corellas.
BBQed steak and sausages and met a very friendly self-described “surfer” family from Melbourne (Michael, Sue and children Declan, Oliver, and Chloe). Also met a dutchman who was taking a similarly long trip throughout Australia and NZ as we were. (We were to meet up with both the Aussie family and the Flying Dutchman several more times over the next several days at various campsites and natural attractions in Kakadu and beyond).
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Darwin to Kakadu (Pics and notes)
Notes of what we did. Pics and more careful narrative to come.
CBD of Darwin---brekkie at backpacker café; bought hats with insect netting ”the flies will drive you mad” and Aboriginal designed silk scarves for presents.
Great cab driver took us to hotel to pick up bags and then to rental place in Winnellie
Picked up van, did big shop at Woolworth’s; ate great pork pies
Stopped at Fogg Reserve Dam
With a little help from another birdwatcher, we Id'd Straw-necked Ibis, Green Pygmy Goose, Intermediate Egret, Black Kite, Whistling Kite, Australian Kestrel, Little Kingfisher, Red-tailed Black Cockatoo, Jacana, Willy Wagtail, Peaceful Dove, Masked Lapwing (Plover), and on our own Brolga Cranes
Termite mound
Drove the Arnem Hway into Kakadu Natl Park (land on 99 yr lease from Traditional Owners to the Parks Dept).
Arrived Aurora Kakadu Lodge, set up van;
Ate at lodge Bistro (Baramundi salad Nicoise; Lamb Shank with cooked vegetables)
CBD of Darwin---brekkie at backpacker café; bought hats with insect netting ”the flies will drive you mad” and Aboriginal designed silk scarves for presents.
Great cab driver took us to hotel to pick up bags and then to rental place in Winnellie
Picked up van, did big shop at Woolworth’s; ate great pork pies
Stopped at Fogg Reserve Dam
 |
| From Sept 24-26, 2008 |
With a little help from another birdwatcher, we Id'd Straw-necked Ibis, Green Pygmy Goose, Intermediate Egret, Black Kite, Whistling Kite, Australian Kestrel, Little Kingfisher, Red-tailed Black Cockatoo, Jacana, Willy Wagtail, Peaceful Dove, Masked Lapwing (Plover), and on our own Brolga Cranes
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| From Sept 24-26, 2008 |
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| From Sept 24-26, 2008 |
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| From Sept 24-26, 2008 |
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| From Sept 24-26, 2008 |
Termite mound
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| From Sept 24-26, 2008 |
Drove the Arnem Hway into Kakadu Natl Park (land on 99 yr lease from Traditional Owners to the Parks Dept).
Arrived Aurora Kakadu Lodge, set up van;
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| From Sept 24-26, 2008 |
Ate at lodge Bistro (Baramundi salad Nicoise; Lamb Shank with cooked vegetables)
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
Therese's 52nd Birthday: Sunrise to Sunset
On the Four-mile beach early morning in Port Douglas. Does this woman look 52?
Sunrise on Four Mile Beach
Birds (identification to come) on a wire in Port Douglas
We said good-bye to Port Douglas (and Queensland). First, however, in order to reduce our excess weight charges on the domestic flights in Australia, we spent an hour or so in the Port Douglas Post Office packing up 2 boxes of "non-essentials" (including Peter's computer) to be sent back to the states and most of our tramping gear on ahead to New Zealand. But despite sending back almost 40 lbs of stuff, when we got to the Cairns airport, we were still 13 kilo over the very stingy 20 kg/person limit, so another charge--- this time AU$130 instead of AU$230.
We arrived in Darwin, checked into our hotel (on the beach a bit outside the city) and walked over to Cullen Bay where we had Therese's Birthday meal.
Breast Cancer Survivors
Darwin sunset
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| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
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| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
Sunrise on Four Mile Beach
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| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
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| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
Birds (identification to come) on a wire in Port Douglas
 |
| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
We said good-bye to Port Douglas (and Queensland). First, however, in order to reduce our excess weight charges on the domestic flights in Australia, we spent an hour or so in the Port Douglas Post Office packing up 2 boxes of "non-essentials" (including Peter's computer) to be sent back to the states and most of our tramping gear on ahead to New Zealand. But despite sending back almost 40 lbs of stuff, when we got to the Cairns airport, we were still 13 kilo over the very stingy 20 kg/person limit, so another charge--- this time AU$130 instead of AU$230.
 |
| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
We arrived in Darwin, checked into our hotel (on the beach a bit outside the city) and walked over to Cullen Bay where we had Therese's Birthday meal.
 |
| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
Breast Cancer Survivors
 |
| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
Darwin sunset
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| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
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| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
Monday, September 22, 2008
Birdwatching in Northern Queensland
An incredible day; we saw and positively identified nearly 90 species of birds thanks to our guide Del! Commentary and more photos to come from our fellow birdwatchers Harold Bob and his wife, Joan, fellow Jewish Obama supporters from Baltimore.
Peaceful Dove
A Bush Stone Curlew (protecting her young under her wing)
A mud-flat right in town where we saw: Eastern Curlew, Silver Gulls, White-breasted wood swallows, Gull-billed terns, Jacana, Reef Egret, a Beach Stone (Thick Knee) Curlew (according to Del, quite a rare sighting) and others. And, in the parking lot: Peaceful Doves, Bar-tailed Doves, Wimbrel, Welcome Swallows, and Pied Imperial Pigeon, and others.
We drove by endless fields of sugarcane and headed up the mountains into our next ecosystem
Intrepid birdwatchers trying to "whistle down" small, hard-to-identify birds. We had mixed success at this.
Stalking honey-eaters in an abandoned private orchard
Lunch at a local eatery in the bush
Where we were joined by a group of begging Apostle Birds, so named because they always travel in groups of 12 or so.
Del and Peter discussing politics while Harold checks off new birds for his "life list."
Another little beggar--- a magpie lark
Bluefaced Honeyeaters
Galahs
Pale-headed Roselle
Bower for Bower Bird mating
The first of millions of termite hills we were to see on our travels
A great sighting of a female Australian bustard (hiding on the grass from nearby raptors (Collared Sparrow Hawk and Wedge-tailed Eagle).
The raptors go away and the Bustard emerges, a tall "state;y" bird.
Peaceful Dove
 |
| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
A Bush Stone Curlew (protecting her young under her wing)
 |
| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
A mud-flat right in town where we saw: Eastern Curlew, Silver Gulls, White-breasted wood swallows, Gull-billed terns, Jacana, Reef Egret, a Beach Stone (Thick Knee) Curlew (according to Del, quite a rare sighting) and others. And, in the parking lot: Peaceful Doves, Bar-tailed Doves, Wimbrel, Welcome Swallows, and Pied Imperial Pigeon, and others.
 |
| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
We drove by endless fields of sugarcane and headed up the mountains into our next ecosystem
 |
| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
Intrepid birdwatchers trying to "whistle down" small, hard-to-identify birds. We had mixed success at this.
 |
| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
Stalking honey-eaters in an abandoned private orchard
 |
| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
 |
| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
Lunch at a local eatery in the bush
 |
| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
Where we were joined by a group of begging Apostle Birds, so named because they always travel in groups of 12 or so.
 |
| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
Del and Peter discussing politics while Harold checks off new birds for his "life list."
 |
| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
Another little beggar--- a magpie lark
 |
| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
 |
| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
Bluefaced Honeyeaters
 |
| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
Galahs
 |
| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
Pale-headed Roselle
 |
| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
Bower for Bower Bird mating
 |
| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
The first of millions of termite hills we were to see on our travels
 |
| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
A great sighting of a female Australian bustard (hiding on the grass from nearby raptors (Collared Sparrow Hawk and Wedge-tailed Eagle).
 |
| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
The raptors go away and the Bustard emerges, a tall "state;y" bird.
 |
| From Sept 22-23, 2008 |
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